Conclusions et remarques

In Tunisia, I noticed that they only thing the French really left was their language- and even that hasn't been acquired by everyone. French culture is so different from Tunisian culture. Even after having studied in Aix for a semester (I know, it's not a lot), I still was not prepared for the culture shock that I received in Tunisia. I think that Tunisia culture is a lot more oriental than people think. Even if Tunisia is supposed to be the most modern, and western of the Maghreb countries, we witnessed ruptures between the theory and the practice.

There, I met a Swiss German that was trying to find a way to get his girlfriend out of the country so he could marry her. The family of the young girl did not want her to marry a European; rather, they wanted her to have an arranged marriage. Sure, the girl could divorce her husband later, but that would mean alienating herself from her family, friends, her in-laws, etc.- it would mean giving up her life as she has come to know it.

I've already talked about the political situation, and how troubling that is. In my opinion, it was going to Tunisia that I received a real culture shock! I didn't have one here in Aix. In France, it was just a matter of adjusting to different habits and slight variations in lifestyle. In Tunisia, it's a completely different way on viewing the world. It is completely different from anything I've ever encountered!

In all though, I loved my stay there, and I don't think I'll ever forget it! And there was a beach, so, at the end of the day, it was more than worth it!

The least you need to know:

1. Knowing French helps, but you should learn Arabic.
2. Don't talk about politics. Ever. "They're" watching...
3. I was serious about number 2.
4. Some people say it's a small world. I think the world's a lot bigger than people give it credit for.
   

Dernier jour de visites- le 21 avril

Today, we went to Sidi Bou Said. This city was really magnifique! I loved it! The houses are painted in white and blue, just like a lot of the homes along the Mediterranean or like in Greece. It was also a town built into a hill. We walked to the top of the hill and we could see the entire city from up there- it was a gorgeous view!

The guide told us that the city is one of the richest in the area. The guide told us that the homes there can cost around a million dollars. I never would have thought that this type of city would exist in Tunisia. We didn't see too many ostentatious things there, and that was unlike Aix...

In Sidi Bou Said, we bought some more things in the souk, as well. There, it was a little harder to bargain because there were so many tourists... As for me, I tried to do my best to buy souvenirs for my family. There were a lot more things at the souk than at the other one, but they costs a little more.

After having shopped for HOURS, we went to the hookah bar while waiting to go to the museum of costumes. In the hookah bar, it was really nice because everyone was sitting and talking quietly- even the guide sat and talked with us. That was really nice because we got to know him a little better. Then, instead of going to the museum, we decided to stay at the hookah bar and relax a little bit- it was a wonderful idea! And then we went back to the hotel.

Musée Bardo- le 20 avril

I really like the musée Bardo a lot! Like I've already mentioned, I find it amazing to see things that have been around for SO long. What's more, it was really cool to see these things conserved so well. I saw mosaics that were still colored and you could still see the mythological stories. It was really interesting! Then I asked if the Romans believed in their mythology the way we believe in our religions today. I would like to know what future generations will think about us and our religious practices... I think it'll be rather interesting. Especially when we start wars in the name of religion all the while preaching about peace. Today, another one of the students on the trip told me that Sweden is the country with the least amount of crime, and some researchers think that it might be because of the lack of religious practitioners.

We also learned that the museum was in the process of reorganizing itself. They want to make it so that the Tunisians can better understand their history. Today, the museum is more or less for the academics who research the topics of the museum. I found this to be a little bizarre because at the round table discussion, the students told us that about 80% of the Tunisians had a university education. I don't understand why these people wouldn't go visit the museum. They are the ones that make up the community intellectual... All the same, I am happy that the museum thought enough to change the way the expositions, so that everyone can understand what they're trying to conserve.

Kairouran et El Jem- le 19 avril

Today we went to Kairouran and went shopping in the souks! It's a completely different culture from what I'm used to in the United States. At home, I don't even try to bargain with vendors. The vendor tells me how much something costs, and if I like the thing, I buy it at that price; however, in the souks, c'est différent! In fact, one would be crazy to pay the prices that the vendors ask. You must MUST play the game: you look, you inquire, you offer, you walk away, you come back, you make another offer, you pay- it's a really LONG process! It's also very fatiguing. I had to take this first day to learn how to bargain with the vendors. I made sure that I stuck with my New York friends, and tried to pick up on as many pointers as I could. What an experience! I learned a lot, but I still don't like the process- it takes too much time! Haha!

In Kairouran, I noticed how close men are to one another. I've seen many men who walk down the street arm-in-arm. At first, I thought that maybe these men were couples, but then I realized that there were so many of them- not that there's anything wrong with that at all-I don't think that homosexual men would be so open about there relationships in Tunisia. In one of the cafés, I saw two men sitting, one with his arm around the other, and then he began stroking the cheek of the other- interesting, n'est-ce pas? What's more, Kairouran is one of the holiest cities in Islam. 7 trips to the mosque there would be the equivalent of a pilgrimage to Mecca. So, yeah, I was expecting a little more discretion... I decided to ask our guide about it, and he told me that men are just a lot closer here in Tunisia. It's actually normal for men to walk down the street holding each others' arms. In any case, I thought that the amount of comfort the men felt around each other was a great thing... if only they could feel that comfortable around women, maybe they wouldn't have to treat them so badly.

After having gone shopping, we went to El Jem. There, we visited the coliseum which is the third biggest in the world and the second biggest outside of Italy. Our guide told us that, in fact, the coliseum was once two coliseums that were merged into one. It was also in El Jem that i met the most forceful merchants ever! I had to help one of my friends by actually pushing a merchant away from her! I don't think things like that would happen in Aix, and never in the States. At first, the entire situation disturbed me, but then I began to think about why people would try to sell something so aggressively. I then realized that in El Jem life isn't as nice as it in in Aix or at home, and that these people have to make a living selling little trinkets to feed their families. Let's be honest, I don't regret having pushed the merchant, but I understand a little better his aggression.

When we got back to the hotel, we talked to one of the staff members at the bar. He talked to us about politics, religion, the state of women, etc. which is illegal in Tunisia. He didn't say too much against Islam and the government, but I was happy that he would even take the time out to talk to us about these topics. I did notice, however, that he had been really conditioned by society. This man did not critique his life situation; he just accepted it the way it was, and he did not want to change it. When we talked about the president, he said that the Tunisians did not need to change to the president because another one would just do the same thing. That reminded me of a conversation I had with my aunt once. She likes to buy plastic cups, but then she washes them. I asked her why- the point of plastic cups is that you can throw them away. She said that sometimes she doesn't mind washing them, and sometimes she does, but she likes to have the option. I think that's the thing. In the States, we know that we can change the president, even if we don't want to- more importantly, the president knows we can take away his position. That's what's important... having the option.

Carthage- le 18 avril

Today we went to Carthage. It was really neat to see and touch things that have existed for centuries. Sometimes I have a hard time imagining that the Romans built these monuments- it's really extraordinary. We don't have things like that in the States. It's was being in Carthage that made me realize just what it means when people say "the United States is a young country".

While on the tour of Carthage, we learned the history of the Carthaginians and how they were beaten several times by the Romans. I had studied this stuff in high school, but since I don't use it, it took a little time for it all to start coming back to me. We also talked about the what "Punic" and "Carhtaginian" mean. Punic is the mix between the indigenous people in Tunisia and the Romans, just fyi.

In Carthage, we went into the Cathedral of St. Louis. It was enormous with byzantine art that was really pretty. Unfortunately, when Tunisia won its independence, most of the catholic churches were closed or turned into administrative buildings. I find that absolutely saddening because it's as if the state prohibits the practice of certain religions. I imagine it must be difficult to a Catholic in Tunisia. Let's say, for the sake of argument, there were a family that wanted to live in Tunisia, but this family also happened to be really religious- namely, really catholic. I don't think they would be willing to pay the price of giving of their religion in order to move. This whole closing of the churches thing also makes me feel that there is a lack of tolerance in Tunisia. We talked to guide about homosexuality, and he told us that homosexuals were treated in a "disagreeable manner". I found that astounding, because even in the States people at least pretend to be tolerant, and hold their tongues... What's more is that in Tunisia, it's not just the people who are intolerant- it's the government!

Tonight, we went to a show in the Cultural Center of Carthage. There, one of our professors had a part in the play. The play was about the walls that we build that just foster more misunderstandings between countries- the Berlin wall, the one they want to build between Cali and Mexico, etc. But, I also saw other "walls"- the one between men and women, the one between the bourgeoisie and the proletariat, and the one between the people and the government. It was a really interesting play especially since I like to analyse those kinds of things.

After the play, we were invited to a celebration because it was opening night for the show, and they wanted to celebrate its success. Well, what I think was supposed to be a small celebration was transformed into a big dance party- typical of Americans (and Tunisians, I suppose). In any case, it was a really great night! Everyone was really nice and welcoming!

Université de Tunis- le 17 avril

Today, we went to the university of Tunis at Carthage. I really appreciated the students a lot because they were super nice! I had started to believe that the Tunisians weren't very welcoming, but they totally blew that theory out of the water. I've concluded that it's a person by person case, and not a generalization that can be made about the entire country- haha!

At the university,the students study languages applied to business. Therefore, they learn French, English, German, and Chinese. Along with these languages, they learn economic theory, and business organization. They master languages and they go to business school as well. I find that to be an awesome idea, and I wish I could find a major like that at Vandy... c'est dommage. I mean, these students are learning all the languages that are important for international business affairs, and they also speak Arabic because they're from Tunisia (or other parts of Africa); thus, they will be able to close business deals with other Arabic countries- Iran, Saudi Arabia, Iraq, etc.

Unfortunately, I also found the students to be a little rowdy and unfocused in their classes. The professor had to stop several times to call the class back to order. For me, it was like being back in sixth grade and not so much like being in a university. I also remarked that some of the students didn't speak French very well. It was then that I learned that French is not an official language of Tunisia; it's Arabic. Even in the hotel, there are servers who don't speak French very well. This makes it a little difficult to communicate with the people there, especially if they're not educated. In the hotel, I've noticed several times when a manager has had to translate from French to Arabic for me...

Next, we had a round table discussion with the fac and students of the university. It was really nice thought, but I didn't like the themes too much. We talked about the financial crisis which is important, but I would have liked to talk about the culture or even about how the students will react to the crisis. First off, there was an official government representative there- overkill much? Yep. He talked the entire time and he only gave the "official" answers to our questions. Also, we couldn't talk about politics. This is completely different from what happens in America and definitely different from what happens in France! When one of our group members asked about the president, the entire room went silent. I have never witnessed something like that. And Tunisia's supposed to be a democratic country! Even the professors- who are usually the source of critique in a society couldn't answer our question. It was stupifying.

Later that night, we went bowling with some the students from the university. We played several games together and it was a really great chance to talk to them about their lives and their studies in Tunisia.

In all, though, I really enjoyed the day. I liked meeting the students and the entire situation made me feel better about the people here.

Tunis, Tunisie- le 16 avril

So, I know it's been a while since I've written, but I'm going to try to do better. I have a few things to catch up on, but I want to start with my trip to Tunisia. I had to keep a journal while I was there, and I'm just going to translate my journal entries from French to English and put them on the blog, so here goes!

I just arrived in Tunisia and I am finding it extraordinary! It's really funny for me to imagine being able to go to Africa by taking an hour-long flight- it's really crazy what technology has given to us!

The first thing that I noticed was that even though Tunisia is a country with a strong Muslim presence, and a lot of extremists (according to my Maghreb class), there are a lot of people who dress with a western style. Personally, I don't know if it's because we're in a big city which has a really strong European influence, or if the people here just have western habits, but it's a image that we don't get to see very often when speaking about Africa.

On the trip from the airport to the hotel, I noticed that there was a lot of construction. I wonder if it's because the area is developing and Tunisia's growing bigger or what. It's a question that I will have to ask later... perhaps. I also noticed that people drive a lot more here in Tunisia. In Aix, you don't really need a car for everyday things- the city's small enough that you can walk everywhere! In Tunis, however, I see only a few people walking; most people are driving in cars or riding on the bus.

Another thing, I noticed that there aren't as many recycling bins as there are in Aix. Granted, we're in the middle of a touristy city, but it just seems to me that recycling isn't as important here as it is in France. The driving and the lack of recycling makes me the think of an American city...

On the other hand, I realized to what point tourism is important for this city. I dare say that I've met more foreigners here that "real" Tunisians- and it's really shocking! We talked a lot about how tourism is the big industry here before we left Aix, but I never realized how big it was! I've met Englishmen, Germans, Asians, etc.- and it's really interesting.

The other big thing that I noticed is that the hotel staff is a little curt at times. They don't have a lot of patience. Even so, I try to speak to them politely in French... they're a little spéciaux. Despite that, the hotel is AWESOME! It's on the beach, there's a pool, a tennis court, etc.- it's great! I also really like the other guests at the hotel too- they're really nice.